Greek Odessey

Redwings Round the World

Greek Odessey

2 - 20 August, 1998

2 August, Marmaris to Tilos

Colleen - After weeks of the purgatory of Marmaris, we were eager to set off before first light across to Greece. We awoke near 5am and were off in the dark shortly thereafter. At the foot of the bay, we tried to get the mainsail up and finally put through the last reefing line to be prepared for emergencies in the future. The wind was already howling over 20 knots at 6am, not an encouraging sign... The job proved long and frustrating. One way or another we misled the lines and had to redo the reef 3 times before getting correct. Not a great task pre-coffee.

The day's sail was fairly variable. We experienced strong winds as we moved up the Northwestern coastal stretch out of Marmaris as usual. I remember seeing the first island rock 20 miles off the coast that we had passed so many times thinking we were leaving Marmaris for good, and then returning, and I said a little prayer that this would indeed be the last time we passed it.

As we stretched out towards the first Greek island, Simi, the waters were unusually calm, and the wind died to very little. Feeling fresh on the first day of the journey we decided to sail past Simi and go for an island further into the Agean. We eventually picked Tilos, and arrived in the bay around 4pm. The island is small, fairly barren, and gets very little tourist company. There were a couple of sailboats in the bay though. We were not to find the relaxation we expected on finally reaching a port after a long sail. It was basically impossible to anchor. The bottom of the entire bay seemed to be grass that our bruce anchor had no hope of even inching into. We struggled for over two hours trying to set and reset the anchor all through the bay. Despair kicked in around six and we headed for the ferry pier. We were told the ferry was imminent, and we would have to stand off at least until it came and left. We went to deeper water and let tonnes of chain out. Our anchor was surely not stuck in, but the wind in the bay had died to practically nothing. With no boats around to drag into we figured we might just take a chance and spend the night with this set up, keeping an ear cocked for the anchor alarm. We finally dingied into shore about 8pm for a quick meal in a taverna (overlooking the boat of course). We were back on the boat by 9pm, and trying to ignore thoughts of dragging anchor to get some sleep for the 'morrows 5am departure.

Diann (Aaron's Mom) - Yes! I finally arrived on 'Redwings' after a three day trek from Maine, tired, hungry, thirsty and with sore arms from carrying spare parts (all guests are required to bring offerings to the boat). What an odessey to have been reading the facinating tale of the Redwings 'Round the World Cruise, and suddenly to be in the story for a brief period. The boat is beautiful (I had only seen it in Hong Kong all in parts) and in excellent shape; the crew has indead worked their bums off.

The first night in Marmaris gave me an introduction to the Disco Boats that roam the harbor with very loud music all night; how they have stood this for 6 weeks is beyound me! After today's sail to Tilos, I am totally impressed with the crew's sailing skill. I am not impressed with my stomach's adaptation to windy sailing, and enjoyed the lovely leek/potato soup Colleen made more on the way down than the way up.

3 August, Tilos to Astopalia to Kos

Colleen - Up again in the dark and off for Astopalia. We sailed another good ten hours, in pretty consistently strong winds (force 6-7 mostly). We arrived in the bay of Astopalia around 4pm. We had to give several goes to the anchoring, but only to get it stuck in well. We didn't experience the despair of the previous day when we grew to realize no matter how long we tried it would never set. It was clear that we could eventually get a good hold in this bottom if we gave it enough tries. When finally anchored we ate lunch, and rested up for an hour before dingying ashore to have dinner and try to clear into Greece officially with the port police. The town was really sweet. Very small but built into a cliff that surrounded the small bay in a semicircle. There was a lovely old church perched on the head of the bay inlet that we agreed to hike up to after clearing in with the police.

Pretty devasting to be told by the police that we must sail all the way back to Kos (75 miles backwards off the coast of Turkey) to clear in immediately. They said it was illegal for us not clear in at the closest port of entry (either Rhodes or Kos) in the Greek Isles before moving further in, and that we had an hour to leave. They took our boat details, and warned that if we didn't show up in Kos in the morning they would be looking for us. Ugh!!

We went to find some dinner before setting out to erase the past two days efforts, sailing agressively into wind and all the work at anchoring both evenings. Diann tried to sound cheery about the new change of plans, Aaron acted cool, but I was really disheartened. The thought of backtracking when we work so hard for each bit of headway, and we are on a schedule to Spain. Without realizing it, I had begun to view the journey as a bit of a race, ticking off progress each day. We had been listenting on the radio to all the boats recently stuck holed in the Agean for 13 day during force 7to 9 winds (30-50 knots) that did not abate; I wanted most badly to have put the Agean behind us before another system like that came through. My concern level was piqued too by the fact that we never officially left Turkey! We decided not to clear out with the boat nor our passports in order to get our clean 5am start from Marmaris. We would have had to leave closer to 11am had we cleared out. Yachties in Marmaris had claimed it no big deal as the Greeks and Turks hated each other so much the Greeks wouldn't ask for the papers. Now I had visions of actually having to go all the way back to Turkey to clear out! Not Marmaris again!!!! I felt like I might be in some Greek tradegy. Visions of Syphasis with his stone came to mind...

We pulled anchor and set off around 8pm. Winds were strong and steady for the first few hours, but the wind angle had improved; we were reaching rather than beating. Diann and I tried to sleep for the first few hours. I was largely unsucessful, and got up to do duty at 2am. We were behind an island then,and the waves had lessened in the lee as well as the wind. It wasn't really so bad until about 5am, when it was getting a real effort to keep my eyes open. I roused Aaron and he took over. We pulled into the crowded harbour around 6:30am.

Diann - Actually this turned out to be a wonderful part of the journey, with a nearly full moon. The colors, sounds and feelings are so different at night. It seemed so weird at first to be sailing to a place none of us had ever been, when we couldn't see and had to trust all the navigation gadets to get us there.

4 August, Kos

Colleen - Thank god Aaron managed a decent back up job into a little opening between the boats on the quay--we were lucky to find spot. The boat was just behind the castle at the head of the bay. We tried to sleep a little, but after an hour were awoken by aggressive pulls on our anchor chain, felt all the way back in the aft cabin! A wooden boat was out front. It had dragged our anchor over the boat next to ours, and then picked up three other boats anchors that were stuck to theirs!!! The poor bastards struggled for an hour trying to extract themselves, while all the surrounding boat owners stood on their bows and watched, some having to release lines to assist the process. The guy next to us, an older, cranky frenchman, said that we should really reanchor our boat now that our anchor had been dragged over his. We agreed, saying we'd just go clear in first, then return to the task.

We were pingponged back between customs, port police, and a currency exchange trying to weave our way through the clearing in process. I had wanted to get some money at the sole ATM, but the line was 50 people long!! Finally a sigh of relief when we had sucessfully cleared in and confirmation was achieved that I did not have to go back to Turkey!

We met a dutch couple in port police office who told us of a charter quay with moorings that could be used for free during the week while the charterers were away. This would avoid the issue of anchors getting caught up in the tight harbour. We went back to Redwings to switch over to the moorings. Diann went down to moorings quay to be the recipient of lines thrown ashore, while Aaron and I brought the boat over. The frenchman watched as we left the quay, promising to assist if anything went wrong. We got off OK and I had just about raised the anchor successfully, when the enging shut off and Aaron screamed drop the anchor again, there's a rope in the prop! Good God. We were just drifting back onto all the boats, with only a few meters to spare as Aaron dove in to try and free the rope. I just barely managed to get out enough chain before we hit a boat and precariously hung there. The frenchman hopped in his dingy and tried to push the Redwings off the other boats with the strength of his dingy motor. Aaron did an excellent job of releasing the rope (getting lots of practice), and the frenchman held it off for us to motor away.

With some sweat we managed to re-moor with the new mooring lines. We felt a little better when a charter boat of Germans came in and tried to manage the same task soon after us. After an hour of unsucessfully trying, they had to have a proffessional captain from the shore jump on the boat and do it for them. This sailing stuff seems to be getting harder and harder somehow....

We showered and walked through the old town to find lunch. The windy streets were sweet, and the shady restraunt lovely, but I was too sleep deprived and worn out to really enjoy the venue. I wandered back to the boat and fell off to sleep for three hours in the heat of the afternoon. Aaron and his mum soon followed with the same plan.

We awoke around 6pm and pottered around the boat. The frenchman came by limping. He complained that he twisted his knee helping us, and now he would have to cancel a charter job he was due to take the following day, at the loss of US$15,000. I felt pretty bad, and offered our regret and symphathy. He said he had helped yachties 20 times over his life out of tight spots but we were the first people who had ever thanked him. I was glad I had thanked him (frankly in the rush of the crisis I have no memory of our verbal exchange), but felt pretty sure he was full of shit that people hadn't thanked him. He was starting to sound really like an old grouch. He went on and on. Normally I would have invited him on for a drink, but now I was just hoping he'd move on. He finally did.

Soon his wife saunters down the quay. She stops to ask if we are ok. We respond affirmatively, and give her our regrets about her husband's injury. She was surprised that he had been by, and that he had told us about the knee. She claimed he was an old grump, and it was not our fault, he shouldn't have even bothered us with it. She felt he was getting to old to be chartering the boat, and it was probably all for the best, etc, etc......For as grouchy as he was, she was pleasantly tempered and gracious.

We left the boat and found a sweet garden restraunt for dinner.

5 August, Kos to Amorgos

Aaron - The alarm went off at 0500, but I (correctly) figured that it might be a bit of a nightmare getting off the quay so it would be better to wait for daylight. Colleen and Mom were up to help at 0600 even though I thought I could get out by myself as we were on a mooring line. Things started out smoothly, we pulled through the stern lines, the boat started to move forward pulled by the mooring line, but then the wind started blowing us into the boat next to us and potentially down over their mooring line. I had waited to engage the engine as the mooring line would pass under our boat and I was afraid of getting the line in the prop as so frequently seems to happen to us. But we needed some power now. Put it in gear, and whizz whizz whunk! Wrapped again! Grab the mask and jump over. This is starting to seem "normal". The wrap was a major one though: it was the thin end of the mooring line which ties it back to the dock so it was able to wrap very tightly before the engine stopped. I pulled and kicked and strained but could not get it free.

"Give me my Fucking knife" "What" yelled Colleen from somewhere up above, "He said give him his fucking knife" Mom relayed. That's my big day glow yellow handled Jacques Cousteau dive knive with the knarly serrated edge. It made quick work of the wrap. "Do you still have the other end Colleen?" "No". (I guess I already knew this but for some reason {temporary insanity} had pushed it from my mind). I dove down to try to find the bitter end of the rope, but could not see anything through the murkey water of Kos harbor. So that meant we had cut the line and there was no way to tie it back the dock. I should have tied a small line forward of the wrap (Colleen apparently suggested this in between head bobs) so we could tie it back. Well it was gone and there was no one around to tell so we left. Assholes..... I do feel really guilty as it was great place to moor - especially for free. Bad, bad, bad. We'll have to do some good deeds to make up for it.

Outside it was a great day for travelling. The forecast for lighter and more Northerly winds proved accurate and by 1100 we were close reaching along at 7-8 knots on a rhumbline course for Naxos, a Greek island 75 miles to the East. Great sailing. However, in the afternoon the wind shifted back to the WNW (right on the nose) and built to 20-25 with sloppy seas. We double reefed and motor sailed into it for an hour or so, but were only making 4 knots at the best of times. For whatever reason I have felt particularly motivated lately to experiment with our sail plans and rigging lately (I think its the lack of chronic underlying exhaustion that accompanied long hauls like the Red Sea). I first tried to use our new cunningham to tighten up and flatten the reefed sail and put the hook through a gromet in the luff of the mainsail that attaches to one of intermediate batcars. It worked great, really flattening the sail, until the gromet ripped out. Shit. I guess I should not try to make something do what it was not meant to do. So we'll have to get that repaired. I did like the way it flattened the sail though so perhaps I see if we can get a large reinforced gromet installed so we can use the cunningham when we reef.

The second experiment was to put up our as yet unused storm jib. The regular staysail (which is probably 18 years old) got pretty well blown out in the Red Sea so I wanted to see how this smaller sail would do as a working sail. It worked great. It really helped to stabilize the boat and its nice to know its up and already rigged when the wind is building so all we have to do is roll up the headsail if necessary. I want to rig and use our storm trysail at some point as well. We have never practiced with it and the only time we have ever put it up was in the harbor in Hong Kong.

Anyway, we were not getting any sort of a "special" traveling window so why keep bashing into it and why keep motoring? We decided to crack off a bit and head for a closer island to the Southwest called Amorgos. A wild, but exhilarating ride at an apparant wind angle of about 60 degrees (just cracked off from close reaching). We moved to a triple reef as the apparent wind speed started to hit 30 and made a steady 6-7 knots towards Amorgos. We are getting much better at reefing early, but also quickly, and generally keeping things comfortable and under control. The fact that I can now throw a reef in by myself in only a few minuites makes me much more likely to go for it. Also, we are just that much better rested and really feel much more up for really sailing the boat.

Colleen - We calculate that we must keep pretty consistent speed up to make it into the anchorage by sunset (9pm), as we approach the head of the island, the waves grow to a very uncomfortable swell hitting us side on. We are bashed from side to side and have to reduce speed. A nervous eye was kept on the watch, trying to judge when we could increase speed to make the deadline. A turtourous two hours later we are pulling into the bay at dusk. We spot an idylic little anchorage a half mile from the main harbour. A sweet beachlined shore, with a romantic greek chapel on one end. Two boats are anchored. I head up to bow, eager to get the job complete before the last whisps of light are gone from the evening. As I go to drop the anchor the chain is obviously stuck in the locker after letting out only a few feet. Frustrated, I thought I'd try to give a pull to the anchor chain with with my hand and see if it would release. Unfortunately, as I bent over in the dark and grasped the chain my foot went down on the button to bring in the anchor chain with the gears of the windlass. The fingers of my right hand came in with the chain, and crushed under it into the gears of the windlass. I let out a cry confused with pain I could not comprehend the cause of. It took moments for me to realise I had to lift my foot to stop the crushing. The others yelled up to ask if I was OK. I looked at the palm of my hand, seemed alright and winced "I guess so." I turned over to the back of my hand and nearly fainted of fright. A red, mauled mush of my pinky and ring finger oozed blood that soon was dropping down my arm and on to the deck. Only one third of my pinky finger nail was still there, and the flesh from there to the finger tip was a mauled pulp of exposed tissue. I couldn't look further than that flash as it was too upsetting to know the damage.

Auggh!!! I ran down stairs with Diann in tow instructing her towards our first aid kit. We had just blown the lightbulb in the main cabin, so we could barely see as I urged her to find some sterile gauze for compression and elevation. She couldn't locate it, and in the dark handed me an ace bandage, which we wrapped around. I lay on the floor holding my fingers up and pressing them. My clothes, face and body now all had blood smears. Aaron insisted he should try to detangle the anchor chain (must have got knotted up in the bashing swells we just went through), anchor and then dingy me in. It seemed to take ages for the process, and his mum hadn't worked the windlass before so they had confused negotiations while trying to anchor. It was eerily clear that this bay had the worst holding in the whole world. There was "No" holding! It felt as though the anchor wouldn't even touch bottom. Its now dark, we are getting nowhere, and I am starting to panic with visions of permanently maimed fingers for lack of expedient medical care. Seeing the blood, having sailed all day and evening, tired, with an empty stomach, I am having to concentrate to keep myself collected. I felt we could be at this all f****** night and still get nowhere. Aaron pleaded to see if I could manage coming up to try to anchor the boat. I did, clutching my hand above my head. It didn't even seem to touch bottom at all. I was convinced it hopeless and urged Aaron to call the boat next to us for help. The crew of the whole boat was standing in the cockpit watching us anyway. I said we should have them come guide us to the town harbour and help tie the lines ashore so I could rush to a doctor. He finally agreed and let me radio them. They didn't seem to really understand (not native english speakers), but finally got it and two guys gladdly jumped aboard to assist. They explained that it was indeed near impossible to anchor in the bay, and they had to dingy their anchor in to the shore and set it by hand earlier in the day.

We glided into town, and there was a large space by the local boats in which we could go alongside. They suggested it being so late that we could probably stay there till morning in view of the medical emergency and it would be the easiest mooring. We successfully pulled up, and Diann and I jumped off the boat. I walked into the restraunt facing the boat on the quay and held up my bandaged and bloody hand asking for directions to the village doctor. I must have looked a fright, I didn't even know I had blood and dirt smeared on my face as later Diann revealed.

No one really spoke english, but the family who ran the restraunt sent the old father/grandfather off with us as a guide to the clinic. By the grace of God, the doctor, at about 9:45pm was still in. A young girl of 25 was the government placed physician on the island. She ran the clinic alone. I just collapsed into her patient's bench and let her examine the fingers. My energy just gave out, and I couldn't face looking at them. Midway through the exam, she left the table for something. Diann came over to see the fingers. I only looked at her face and that told me enough. Without her realizing it, her face was twisted in the expression of one viewing the gory part in a horror film.

The doctor concluded no bones were broken, and the exposed pulp of tissue was unstitchable. All that could be done was a cleaning out and dressing of the wound, to be repeated religeously for a week or two. She brought me over to sink to wash my hand first, as she said after this I shouldn't let it get water exposure, so its best to do it before the dressing. I couldn't find the strength to sit up at the sink while she did it, and sat on the floor. I asked Diann for water, feeling a little faint, but probably just very dehydrated. We had been heavy sailing for 16 hours since 5am, and in the rough weather I had barely eaten or drunk water.

When she finished we asked for the bill. Its free she said, I'm a government appointee. Well thats a break... We walked off back to town. Redwings was smack in the middle of the main pedestrian esplanade, tied up side-to for showcase display. Practically every passerby on their evening stroll stopped to admire the boat (hey she was a lot prettier than all the other boats in there, mostly charters) and squeal with delight over the novelty of seeing two kitties perched on the dodger completely at home.

We cleaned up and sat at the restraunt across the esplanade from the boat. I was fairly shell-shocked, but it was deliceous fun to silently observe everyone come up and remark on the boat and dote over the cats. People were utterly intrigued somehow. After the exhaustion of the night sail, the full day and evening at sea, followed by the anxiety of the "finger episode", we agreed it best to spend the next day in Amorgos recovering.

6 August, Amorgos

Aaron - Lay day. Amorgos is the nicest place by far we have stopped since leaving Marmaris and also the coolest place (yes I mean temperature) we have been since God knows when. We are truely in the middle of the Agean and the winds and surrounding seas seem to help keep a lid on the heat that was such a feature of the Turkish mainland and islands close to it.

Amorgos is a mid-sized island by Agean standards: 15 miles long, two miles wide, high mountain ridge running down the length. Reportedly "Le Grand Bleu" (english: The Big Blue) was filmed here - the island's claim to fame..The barren mountains drop right into the ocean around most of the island and the large seas built by weeks of a howling Meltimi crash balistically upon them giving the island and rugged and inhospital look. However, the main town of Katapola, where we are moored, lies at the end of a long inlet and offers good protection from the seas and winds.

We all slept soundly after yesterday's exertion. Mom woke up very early and took a walk around the village and surrounding area and Colleen and I did the same later in the morn once we got some caffeine in us. Katapola has all of the requisite quaint Greek features: white washed houses with colorful doors and bouganvilla lining the lanes and climbing the hills, colorful fishing boats on the quay, ancient ruins, and a nudist beach for the tourists (well its a sort of quaintness....)

Apart from reading, drawing, napping, resting, eating, and playing with the cats (who are looking much better in the cooler weather), we did nothing else.

7 August, Amorgos to Naxos

Aaron - Uneventful 0530 start - dark. Still life in quayside cafes. Easy traveling towards Naxos. Hit by strong gusts as come around corner of Heraklia island up to 30 knots. Beam reaching at 7-8 knots under 3x reefed main and and storm jib - dropped main as wind gusted towards 40. Still jogging along at 6 knots with storm job alone. Turn corner - no wind! Motor to Naxos. yacht "Gigilo" there and Gary came over to chat. Great anchorage and holding. Afternoon exploring island. Back for finger surgery, aka change the dressing...Gauze is stuck to finger and impossible to extract. Now part of Colleen's flesh. We enjoyed a beautiful sunset / moonrise at arch ruin on hill above the anchorage followed by dinner with Gary and Dorothy of Gigilo. Bed.

Diann - This day was by far the roughest seas I have ever been in sailing; I must admit concern at some of the huge greenies that loomed over the boat, and the bashing about, but I was never frightened and definitely have my sea stomach and legs now. Naxos is big and touristy, but wothwhile; the landscape is dramatic with huge crashing surf all around (we were behind a breakwater). We spent sunset on a rise under an ancient arch; as the sun sank, the full moon rose...there are more moments of wonder on this trip than sail, engine or tangled line problems!

8 August, Naxos to Paros

Colleen - We enjoyed a bit of a "lie in" as our goal for the day was only to make the c.10 mile hop across to a northern bay of Paros. Gigilo was planning the same jump, but Gary reported that he thought the seas looked to high and he might just stay put. He had observed the ferrys coming across "getting tossed around like matchsticks". We figured with such a short way to go it can't be that bad..." Typical erring Redwings logic. We inched out of the harbour a mile and radioed back to Gigilo that although it was sloppy heading right into the waves, it was certainly bearable for the small journey. The agreed to follow. Thats when the fun started... As we approached the turn off for Paros, crashing seas worsened,and we were blasting up and down in huge waves. We were frightened to turn the boat in and have to hit the seas broad side. Slow travelling - longest 10 miles we've ever gone. Pretty seasick inducing conditions and Sybil took the que. She somehow managed to upchuck in our aft cabin (bedroom) and projectile vomit to hit, the bed, the floor, the closet, and much clothing. What a mess!!! The place reeked of regurjutated Friskies.

Finally we turned corner and stormed in at 8 knots then running with the waves to wonderful anchorage on NW tip. Flat calm. Decent hold.

Diann and I decide to be dingied to the local pier just in time for the ferry (a small fishing boat) to the village so I can find a doctor to give me advice about the gauze which is now a fixed feature of my body (stuck to my wound). I was hoping it wouldn't have to be pulled off - which would be shockingly painful and would open the wound afresh, and if it did that the doctor could do the dirty work for me.

Only one other passenger on the ferry- a young Australian girl. We quizzed her about the town and its facilities. She revealed that she's working as a nurse in London for a year and on a brief holiday alone. We excitedly asked her about the "gauze situation". Unfortunately she layed down the law on no uncetain terms and insisted not to bother with a doctor, it just had to come off. She suggested soaking for a long time in saline to soften it up.

Well with that mission out of the way, Diann and I were left to a bit of grocery shopping, touring of the village, and sundry errands. We bought some saline, I called home to my parents etc...

We took the ferry back and dutifully waited on the pier for Aaron to come with the dingy and collect us. Unfortunatley.... he had fallen asleep and long forgotten us. After 20 minutes wait we became impatient. It was a totally beautiful bay for bathing, but I wasn't swimming due to the finger. Day trippers were everywhere frolicking in the torquoise water. I finally reasoned that I would have to soak my finger anyway, might as well start the process.... Off came half my clothes (laundry is too valuable to get salty, and everyone else was half naked) and I jumped in for a really lovely 20 minute swim to Redwings.

That evening dinner on the boat, followed by Diann's initiation into the Redwings Hearts vortex....

9 August, Paros to Kithnos

Aaron/Colleen - 0515 start with lots of moonlight and dawn just breaking. Calm winds, but seas still snarly round corner. Bit of sail helps. Finally, seas abate and winds build and we have good sailing with 2x reefed main, storm sail, and bit of genoa. Making 8-9 current assisted knots towards Kithnos - wind more from North than lately - good day to put in miles. Wind dies, engine won't start - seems to have water in it! New exhaust system installed by Ahmed in Turkey must go below water line when well heeled to port. Arrgh! Eventually got it going by working starter slowly. Motorsailed rest of way. Strong gusts to 30 and above approaching Kithnos. Into harbour. Good docking stern to. Next door was the "eccentric englishman" with an ancient motorcruiser. We chatted with him a lot. He noticed Colleen's finger and offered special pills for "severed nerve endings" as he was a holistic practicioner. We dined on board. Basil woke us around 2am soaking wet. He obviously fell in the water, somehow managed his way out, and as usual, the next stop was our bed to drip over. Colleen got up to shower the salt water off him.

10 August, Kithnos

Basil and Sybil - Life With Wind In Your Fur

We hear that our fans would like to know more about this trip from our point of view. Some parts get 4 meows, and some none. A 4 meower is that you can really train your humans! They feel guilty about all the bad wind and waves, and will do anything for you when the boat docks. For example, we only drink water straight from the fridge that is cold, and only in a hand held wine glass. It really helps our humans feel better to do that. On the other end of the scale for no meows try to imagine this! You have been sailing all day and really gotta' go; your bathroom is a box full of small rocks on the back of the deck. You can barely walk back there with all the thrashing about of the boat, and then have to sit while trying not to fall and maintain some dignity...well, definitely the pits.

Colleen- Awake. Happy for the rest/lay day. Scrub the boat clean with water. Spend afternoon playing cards/having lunch at Taverna across from boat. Invite englishman over for cocktails. Friendly Greek couple on the other side of us with dog. End evening having a "brandy" on englishmans boat with tour. He tells us how he almost sunk of the coast of this island - he just bought the old clunker in Cyprus and is delivering it back to France, put out a mayday call, was towed in by fishing boat, then was charged 3,000 pounds for the service, sueing, got away with only 800 pounds.....We wondered how the boat would ever make it to France.

11 August, Kithnos to Aegina

Colleen - Well.. this was the doosy. As Aaron says a "rompin' sail". We finally conquered our strong wind deamons by heading out across this last stretch of the Agean in force 7-8 winds - close hauled! The waves were huge, the wind was gusting, and practically no other boats left harbours that day, but we managed, and somehow it really wasn't that bad. I even caught my first daytime nap of the trip (all the other days I was too aware of conditions to relax enough for sleep). Although we were pounding into waves at speed, it was a very consistent boom. By now I felt utterly impressed with how good a sport Diann has been. With a cheery face to conditions she has co-experienced some of our more challenging sailing of the voyage - and this is supossed to be her holiday!

By late afternoon we were in the lee of mainland Greece, and at least the seas had subsided. We turned up along the coast of Aegina, and felt finally sighs of relief could be exhaled... Into the main town port and look for an open slot along the quay. We spotted an empty berth next to a big powercruiser. Someone came to the bow and motioned that the berth was free and fine. We backed in and guys from the powercruiser took our lines ashore.

Though the town seemed lovely (old buildings, never destroyed by earthquakes - unusual in Greece), we were a large sidewalk away from the main street running through town. I was horrified at the thought of Basil and Sybil running around by the main road at night.

The Italian powercruiser next door proved very friendly and utterly intrigued by the set up of Redwings with its two cats. The passengers consisted of an Italian "papa" and "mama" with a son, his two friends, and his Austrian girlfriend. The Austrian girlfriend, a round, smiling, jolly woman, was the only english speaker of the gang and she served as boat interpreter. She relayed their questions about our existence, and they also asked us for weather information. They were totally aghast that we had sailed across in the day's conditions. It was insisted that they would not leave the harbour if there was any sign of weather at all. According to the Austrian girlfriend "the papa" did not want any waves splashing on the boat. We found it pretty extraordinary that this million dollar cruising yacht was afraid of a bit of salt water on the hull. As we got talking it ends up the family owns the main marina in Catania, Sicily. No doubt, from all hints given, they have very close associations with the most famous institution of Sicily.

12 August, Aegina

Name - Aaron to Athens - stuck!

13 August, Aegina to Galaxidhi

Aaron - My morning started at 0530 with a wake up call from the old guy at the desk of the HOTEL. Who was I kidding? The ferry does not leave till 0640 and I've nothing to pack and no comb or brush (so skip a major shower), so why get up early when you can stay in bed longer? I finally crawled out of bed at 0620, threw my clothes on, checked out and walked out and made the ferry with a few minuites to spare.

At 0720 we pulled into Agena harbor just meters from the boat and I was soon back aboard Redwings. Mom and Colleen were obviously (?) glad to see me (I think) and played down the worry card. Apparently, however, the police had not passed on my message (although the people on the boat next to ours said the cops were looking for them before they returned from their big bike excursion). Ok, so lets go!

We made a very professional extraction and were soon on our way towards the Corinth Canal motoring into a fairly civilized 15 knot breeze. Several hours later, we were at the entrance to the canal. We tied up, presented our papers, paid the fee, and within 20 minuites were given the green light to traverse along with several power boats. Very easy. Our timing must have been perfect - many people have reported having to wait hours to go through.

The Corinth Canal is a 3.5 mile passage effectively connecting the Agean and Ionian seas. The canal was cut right through the limestone hills that comprise the ithsmus between the Peloponese peninsula and the mainland. As a result, it feels as though one is traveling through a mini Grand Canyon. Looking high over the top of the mast at the kids lined bridges up above I could only hope they would not attempt any gravitational experiments with lungies.....

When asked my learned opinion on the weather on the "other side", I confidently forecast a mill pond as we would really be getting west of the steep Balkan High - Turkish Trough pressure gradient that was sending the air tumbling across the Agean seeking the rest area around Cyprus (the Meltimi must be a British tourist). But of course, the wind was rip roaring in the Gulf of Corith from the NE at 25-35 and we were soon taking greenies over the bow (better than those from above that I feared while in the canal), but at least we were sailing. I felt beat after my night of bad husbandry and could only get motivated to roll out a bit of genoa, but we still made 5-6 knots towards our chosen destination of Kiato. We had not heard anyting about the place, but it looked like reasonable shelter and we were ready to call it a day.

As we neared Kaito, it looked pretty dead to me. Mom and Colleen said they saw some masts in the harbor, but all I could see were lamp posts along the quay. And lamp posts they turned out to be. There was not one boat in the pre-fab concrete harbor - just a few beat up cars on the quays and a few garbage dumpsters. It looked like only a dumping off place of various cargos for mid-sized merchant ships. One could get a bit of shelter in there in a pinch, but it certainly looked skimpy on the sort of haute culture to which we on Redwings have come accustomed (though Basil and Sybil looked interested...).

Anyway, the wind and seas had eased and we could still make Galaxidhi by dark so we decided to go for it. I'll take a nap. Colleen you drive. ZZZZZZZZZZ. Approaching Galaxhidi we were treated to some more 20-30 knot winds (after motoring for several hours with zippo wind) and were able to make 8 knots towards our goal. We really wanted to get in before dark as there were several reefs and islands to negotiate on the way in. We made it by these obstacles in the daylight and were treated to a nice free quayside space alongside several mega yachts (100 feet plus). Galaxhidi looked as classy as Kaito looked industrial.

For some reason we are getting pretty good and backed right in no problem and soon had the lines secured and anchor chain tight. Someone on the dock actually suggested we help someone else in later who he knew was a bit green as "we ovbiously know what we are doing". He obviously was not there at Stardust Marina two weeks ago! We are getting a lot better though. I've found the key to getting a good back up is to start way out in front of where I'm going with the stern cocked a bit to port of where I want to go and then bring her in reverse fast. By the time the starbord kick of the prop has been mitigated by our backwards movement, we are pretty straight. I can then steer pretty well with the rudder. Colleen can also help me keep the boat straight by slowly letting out the chain. The last key, which is a bit of a no brainer, is to make sure all of the lines and fenders are ready and well placed. Anyhow, its working now.

What a great town! Quaint tavernas and shops along the quay, clear water, beautiful yachts and colorful fishing boats, whispering pine forest just in front of the boat, high mountains all around and valleys filled with agricultural land and dotted with farmhouses.

14 August, Galaxidhi

Aaron - After a major boat cleaning session in the morning, during which we knocked a Dead Sea like salt crust off the entire outsite of the boat, the day was spent relaxing in this beautiful spot. Walks around the village, a stroll through the wooded state park which is just opposite the quay, naps, reading....... No major excitement, but this is a really beautiful spot!

15 August, Galaxidhi to Trizonia

Aaron - We left only 15 minuites after our 0700 deadline - not bad considering the cops were still trying vainly to wake our neighbors by whistling and banging on their boat when we departed. Another deceptively professionaly looking extraction - we are starting to kid ourselves that we know what we are doing with this docking stuff. We'll see how Colleen and I do without Mom (or any other third hand) when she leaves. Certainly will be more of a challange getting in stern to as Colleen will have let the anchor out and then run back and throw the lines - I can't reach them as we are a center cockpit.

Anyway, for the first time in weeks, we traveled under power alone through flat calm seas. Looking through the clear waters, there were zillions of funny spherical jellies with lots of big brown dots all over them passing by (actually, we were passing them....) Several hours later, we pulled into a defunct marina on the small island of Trizonia. Apparently, construction started on the marina about 5-10 years ago and sometime after the quays were laid, it went bust. Anyway, when we pulled in there was lots of room and we tied up alongside. Great protection. Beautiful view of hills all around, wonderful small village with numerous tavernas.

The cats were big buyers of the spot. All along the peirs/quays there are open square holes approxzimately 1m x 1m x1m which they can jump down in to hide/explore. No cars. Trees and dirt piles at the end of the dock. Few dogs. Good stuff.......

16 August, Trizonia to Patras

Name - Leasiurely wake up, Mom brought goodies, off after net towards Navpaktos -- no wind motor with bimini. Navpaktos too small to get into and no room anyway. Anchor off beach with lots o bathers. Row in. Neat town / castle, but been there seen that. Back off by 1300ish toward Paros and arrived around 1700 - big place (3rd lgst in Greece) lots of huge ferries. Finally found yacht harbor and were able to go alongside - water and ele, bunch of other cruisers around. Hot! Mom trying to figure out what to do.

17 August, Patras to Sami (Cephalonia)

Name - Mom to explore options, we to chandlery. No one open, speak English, no luck to find charts or anything else. Mom can't get flight from Cephalonia so we'll leave her here. Water, dingy on boat, and we're off for the Ionian. Great day. Sail up (genoa) as soon as out of marina and making 7-8 knots with 20-25 just aft of beam. As soon as out of Gulf of Patras however, wind died completely and motored to port of Sami on Cephalonia - largest island in Ionian. First attempt at going stern to with just we two - no prob like pros. Nice town, few boats, quiet evening.

18 August, Sami to Fiskardo (Cephalonia)

Name - Leasuirely lie in, Colleen checked us out of Greece, off for Fiskardo 12 miles up coast via Ithaca / Cephalonia channel. Sail for an hour, but wind died and motored in to Fiskardo past yacht flotilla / rally. Major scene at quay. One spot at end, but shallow. We back in ok but hit rudder on bottom slightly - helpful guy ashore helps get lines over to side where deeper and we get in ok, but well off quay. Dutch boat soon follows next to us bow to (so can go closer given shallow water) and we help them. They have dingy and will let us use for transport.

Walk around town, swim, nice town, very touristy, extremely yachtie/charterie - boats and one-week-cruisers everywhere. Now fun begins, zillions of boats start funneling in around 1600 and before we know it there are two boats hung off out bow and 19 Sunsail charter boats all tying up in a circle around one rock nearby. Other boats keep coming in, dropping anchor, and getting in wherever they can.

Lauging at guy with 4 anchors on his chain.....

19 August, Leaving Greece

Name - ...but we are the entertainment in the morning. Caught up with anchor of motor boat next door. Got off fairly well and learned how to do it. Little wind in am, but then kicked in 10-15 just forward of beam and made 6 knots comfortably under genoa alone. Nice steady sailing....

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