Cruising the Turquoise Coasts of Turkey:

Redwings Round the World

Cruising the Turquoise Coasts of Turkey

7 June - 1 August, 1998

Its again a long distance call for us to upload here in Turkey so we are not including any pictures. We'll do a lot of scanning and downloading next time its cheap.

Photos of The Henderson-Willam's Turkish Expedition

15 June, Finike, Turkey

Colleen - We are all totally shattered. Our "easy 35 hour" sail from Cyprus ended up being one of our more difficult nights at sea. Second night out the wind built and built. Shorthanded with one person standing watch, we didn't react as quickly as we should have be reducing/losing sail area. We also had foolishly neglected to re-rig the reefing lines after Israel, so we couldn't reef the main which if we had done would have reduced the trauma. I woke at midnight to start my 12-4am shift. I took over from Kerry. Just before she got off watch waves started coming into the cockpit. She was completely soaked, and a lot of water had made its way into the cabin through open windows and hatches. I had skipped dinner hoping to get some sleep for the watch. Big mistake. The rough motion of the boat meant I got little sleep, and I was weak with hunger. My plan to eat at midnight was impossible to execute. The boat was rocking so much, I wouldn't even attempt a move towards the stove.

Both Mary and Ann couldn't sleep. Mary joined me in the cockpit right away with big eyes absorbing the world of waves around her. She kept insisting we should be wearing life preservers (even though we had harnesses on) and that our rescue buoy system didn't appear adequate. Several waves hit me in the face and I was soon doused, in no mood for these comments. Mary who could only manage a "recline" position under the dodger missed the waves.

The situation was getting worse not better, as the true wind rose above 20 knots, right on the nose. Aaron and Ann got up and we decided we must take down the main sail. I had to do most of the work with Aaron at the wheel and Mary and Ann trying to help by shining a flash light in my eyes (intended for the sail) and handing sail ties. Mary also assisted with "watch out, hold on" calls at 15 second intervals.

As soon as we tried the engine it faltered out. Salt water in the starboard fuel tank again! What a time for it... Aaron went down to bleed engine/switch tanks, we fretted above. We got the engine going again, but realized we'd be lucky to have enough fuel to make Finike. This was feeling like the kind of time when I wish I wasn't here doing what I was doing...

The cats by now were freaking out totally in a world upside down with everything slamming side to side. Sybil upchucked. We nominated Mary to go down and sleep with the cats. Being able to lay with a person seems to calm them down. She wasn't too psyched about Sybil getting into her bunk, fearing she my lose her Friskies again. Ann stayed up for a while helping me keep look out for ships.

I tried to get some sleep when I went off to bed around 5am. I drifted in and out, waking around 10am as we approached Finike.The harbor looked beautiful, surrounded by mountains. The showers were lovely and hot, and still somewhat in a daze we tried to get things in order, check in, get money, etc..Finding an ATM to take a Cirrus card proved a drama. Every bank in town checked, no one speaks English at all, only German (c.80% of tourists here are German). Finally I find a bank to accept the card. The ATM machine is broken, and the manager of the bank (who of course I 'm just sign-languaging to) has to take the machine apart before I can finally get some money.

Mary and Ann were trying to find a way to Istanbul for their flights home. Unfortunately they realized it would be most advantageous to leave by 6pm, so a mad rush began, and a shockingly quick goodbye left me feeling sad for her departure.

Kerry, Aaron and I barely managed to take in some food for dinner before drifting off to sleep....

16 June, Finike, Turkey

Colleen - We promised each other we'd all work cleaning up the boat until noon before relaxing. Starting with a much better base after all the efforts in Israel, we were able to make the boat look quite nice again in no time. Kerry went off for a walk around town and I attacked to computer to catch up on all the emails I'd been neglecting. Redwings seemed oddly quiet without Mary.

Aaron and I took an evening stroll through town (far too hot during the afternoon), and up the mountain for a view of the harbor. Lots of quaint homes, and herds of sheep etc...A truck spewing huge clouds of smoke roamed every street out the town trying to chase out mosquitoes. I was choking from the fumes. We ended up at a cafe where one of the marina office staff was dining. We invited him to join us, and had a nice evening learning about Turkish ways until the smoke-mobile came by the restaurant.....

17 June, Kekova Roads, Turkey

Colleen - We wasted all our cash getting fuel (the credit card machine was broken), then set sail for Kekova Roads, a pleasant 2-3 hours away. Anchored around what were to become the ubiquitous wooden charter boats. Dingied to cave, then island with ruins. Climbed to top of island, splendid view. Swam. Water ideal, cool enough to be refreshing, but not freezing.Relaxed on boat, Kerry not feeling well, slept. Aaron cooked scrumptious corn chowder. Colleen read on deck as sun went down. This is the life. Finally!

Only downside, heavy mosquitoes.

18 June, Kas, Turkey

Colleen - Awoke and motored four miles through protected water to small, super-quaint village built into hillside. "underground ruins" in water, dingied around. Climbed to top of hill for a view from the "fort". All got in as students no problem. We must look young for the geriatric Turkey cruising crowd. Teeshirts, baseball caps and backpacks all around probably didn't hurt either.

Met a couple that cruised from France the opposite way. They said Kas, 15 miles or so up coast was nice, so we decided to go for it. Took a refreshing swim off boat, then on to Kas.

Marina (i.e. town dock) looked crowded, and we were sure expensive, so headed to anchor in bay a mile or two off with intentions to dingy over to town. Had hell of a time getting anchor set in weeds and mud. All the more frustrating with a crowd of pleasure charterers looking on as if it was a test match.... After about 7 goes finally got it to stick.

Fun dingy ride over, we were clad in lifejackets and the three of us hovered forward trying to get the dingy to plane. Coastguard came along side to observe the crazy site. The town was dreamy.. try Nantucket in Turkey, but built into a hill. Windy pedestrian alley streets lined with quaint shops and eateries. Could have stayed for weeks. Kerry bought a shirt, I a straw hat. Had "Turkish pizza" for dinner with several frosty beers. Roamed the streets. Met a charter boat captain that insisted we come aboard for a tour and "coffee". I declined the coffee but poor Kerry and Aaron felt obliged and got the buzz of their lives. Kerry couldn't fall asleep 'till wee hours (she never even drinks tea!).

Romantic dingy ride back under the stars. Actually happy and preferring to be in our quiet anchorage in the end.

19 June, Fethiye, Turkey

Colleen - Set off at 5:30 am for Fethiye, a c.50mile journey.Aaron performed all the heroics -awaking by himself and somehow managing to bring dingy motor and dingy aboard, as well as raise anchor and set off while Kerry and I slept on. Arrived in Fethiye early afternoon. Now convinced there's no reason to go to expensive docks and marinas, and anchored off. Kerry sorted out transit to Athens to meet her family next day. Ferry to Rhodes then ferry to Athens. We went in for ATM and internet cafe. Very touristy town. Too intense. Like every coastal tourist town, cafe/restaurants everywhere. One after another, with barely any patrons. Mindboggling to consider how they stay solvent. Had an early cocktail, then a very disappointing pizza. Back to boat. Not into Fethiye at all. Major transit point for charters/tours, and it shows. Convenient for getting things done, but too crowded and built-up.

20 June, Gocek, Turkey

Colleen- Kerry off early at 8:45 am. Basil joined her and Aaron for dingy ride to ferry. Aaron and I set off for Gocek, 10 miles away. Our first sail alone on Redwings! Very pleasant, played the music in the cockpit, cruised through the sheltered bay. Anchored off in Gocek and saved US$28/night mooring fee. We're told they are strict on toilet flushing in bay, so someone checks no boats going by before flushing. Relaxed a bit then into town, a short dingy ride away. Cute, but not as sweet as Kas. Had drinks in one of the myriad of quay-side bar/restaurants. Aaron tried a pizza again. Biggo mistako.....

Back to boat, laid in cockpit and enjoyed the stars....

21 June, Skopea Limani, Turkey

Colleen- Awoke at a civilized 7:45, for weather on radio, and sked. Richard has surprisingly joined a Norwegian boat we know Sportica Marie, for a cruise up to Turkey and comes up to say hello to us on the radio. Last I spoke to him in Israel he insisted he was flying back to England in a week! A few hours sail through the bay to a tiny cove with no one else. We decide to start touching up on interior varnish. Spend the afternoon working at leisurely pace.

Around sunset, three local fishing boats with families aboard come into anchor for the night.

22 June, Marmaris, Turkey

Colleen - Three very large charter boats come steaming into our very small cove to anchor around 8:00am. Bathers jump off and start frolicking in water. Just enough time for us to haul dingy out, raise anchor and sail for Marmaris, c.45 miles away. As usual heading right into the wind, so more like a motor to Marmaris. Aaron sleeps for first few hours, I enjoy the ride, then I go down to "read" in bed with the kitties, which turns into an unintended nap.

Hit Marmaris about 3:30. Anchor off of marina again to avoid US$40/night fee. There's time for another coat of varnish. Head ashore. Massive marina. 700 boat capacity. Overwhelming city in itself.... Use showers and feel even cleverer. Roam around. Reasonably high quaint factor. Up to "fort" on hill overlooking marina through winding alley streets. See "home"restaurant. Woman and son operating restaurant out of apartment. Only a few tables. Damn cute interior. Food OK, especially for Turkish cuisine, which ain't gonna' win any prizes for world culinary contributions. Sorry David Scott...

Met a cruiser living in the alley from South Africa that is chartering out boat locally for three years. Wandered around town a bit. Called my mum for her 67th birthday. Also tried to sort out her getting my funds liquidated to pay our 1997 US taxes which are still an albatross around our necks.....Star-filled dingy ride back to boat.

23 June, Marmaris, Turkey

Aaron - Boat work day. Colleen varnished interior stuff, I stripped the old varnish off the toe rail. In general, it was a thrilling day.

24 June, Marmaris, Turkey

Aaron - Up early to bring the boat into the marina. Luckily, we got a spot at the end of one of the pontoons so it was easy to get in and we were able to avoid making complete fools of ourselves attempting the "Med Moor" (backing stern to into a slot barely wider than the beam of the boat).

Its great to get a hose on the boat and give her a good clean. Colleen finished varnishing the main and aft companionway steps, and I changed all of the fuel filters, oil, and ATF fluid as well as finally cleaned out the starboard fuel tank. Have to find a better gasket / o-ring for the filler cap (salt water keeps finding its way in somehow....).

25 June, Marmaris, Turkey

Aaron - My friend and ex-colleague David Wong and his girlfriend Michelle arrived today and will be cruising with us for a week or so. I am excited to pin David down for more gory details on all of the Bankers Trust gossip of the last 8 months....

We plan to leave the marina this evening, get fuel, and anchor out saving the $40 marina fee. Tomorrow we will start to work our way slowly towards Bodrum and hope to get back to Marmaris around the 1st of July to start to prepare for our next round of guests - my Dad and his family will be joining us on the 5th....

26 June, Serce, Turkey

Aaron - Last night we tried Mexican with Dave and Michelle on a recommendation from another yachtie and I got the lowdown on all of the goins on at BT. Both the gossip and the Mexican fare were good.

We left after the morning radio sked en direction Bodrumish. For once, the wind was behind us and we actually raised the main at anchor and sailed out of the harbor. The pleasant sailing weather lasted for several hours before it started to back around to the good ole NW and build. 15, 20, 25, 30....... 2x reef in the main and close hauled. Seas building and we are starting to get wet. Queasiness starts to set in for those who are afflicted by motion sickness - Sybil gives me her "I'm gonna heave look"......

No need to bash into this all afternoon, so we tucked in behind an island, dropped the main, and motored close to the coast (and out of the swell) to an anchorage about 20 miles out of Marmaris called Serce Limmae. After passing through a narrow entrance, we were soon in a large bowl shaped bay entirely ringed by steep mountains. It was flat calm. There is apparently a wreck of an old ship (2,000 years old or something) near the entrance which was of major archeological significance. There are wrecks and ruin on almost every square mile of Med territory.

A nice end to a marginally tough afternoon. Not. Anchoring gymnastics start here. We tried the East end first. After about five tries we still could not get the pick to hold and were winching up gobs of grass every time. Lets try the other end. After about four tries, it seems to finally be holding reasonably well - let out more scope and that should do her. It was pretty deep in most of the bay though (the norm in most Med anchorages) so we had to anchor fairly close to shore - not a problem if you are well dug in and the wind does not swing you around into the rocks. Well given the bowl shape of the anchorage, the wind seemed to spin round and round and would blow one way for 10 minuets, and then swing to another direction, and then back around again. Pretty soon, as we had had to let out a lot of scope, we were only 10 meters off the shore and dragging! Luckily we were watching the situation pretty closely and were able to start the engine and get the anchor back up.

"Osman's Restaurant" was located on the shore at the end of the bay near where we were anchoring and had several moorings out front. Normally the deal is "use my mooring, eat at my restaurant", but a German boat nearby that was watching our antics (with amusement I'm sure) said we could pick one up no problem don't worry. The restaurant looked like a shack with no one inside anyway. However, of course as soon as we picked it up a guy in a decrepit old rowboat paddled out to "help" and inquire about our dinner plans. We lied (naughty) that we had already prepared soup so could not eat at his restaurant tonight, but maybe tomorrow lunch? No lunch. Ah maybe try anchoring over there. How bout here? No. Give me back my mooring.

Well I guess I've got to do what every else does in the Med (and obviously they have reason), and lay out tons of chain off the bow and anchor stern to the shore with a line to the rocks. I'm still pretty lame at backing Redwings up very accurately, but we had lots of room and using the dingy Colleen and Dave were able to get out other anchor ashore and in the rocks with a bit of help from a local fisherman who was also anchored there. Finally we secure and able to rest!

Dave, who I always knew to be a veg head, cooked up a delicious Korean meat dish and we were all able to get a good sleep even though the wind continued to howl all night.

27 June, Bozuk Boku, Turkey

Aaron - As we did not do much yesterday but try to anchor, we decided to make only a small move today so we might get to see a bit more ashore. We moved another few miles down the coast to another large and protected inlet called Bozuk Boku. Ruins of a large citadel stand over the entrance and there are scattered remains of old towns all along the shore.

No shoreside exploring for us today though as it was Nightmare on Anchoring Street Part II. After four or five attempts to penetrate a bottom of packed sand and weed at various depths, we finally held.... for a 1/2 hour till a 30 knot gust started us dragging. The wind seems to have built since yesterday.... more and more battered boats are streaming into the anchorage. Try and try again but no joy.

Colleen finally convinced me to try one of the moorings in front of a restaurant. We motored over there and a British boat on one of the moorings confirmed that they were solid and that there was plenty of swinging room between them and us. The eager restaurant proprietor also said no problem and helped us take a mooring between the British boat and a German boat. Yea!

Several other boats, including some very large mega yachts, came into the bay and was unable to get good holding and some of them had to head out. One boat lost an anchor and came up to us (spotting the dive tanks we have on deck) and asked if I would dive on their anchor tomorrow. Other boats tried to get into the dock in front of the restaurant with varying degrees of success and lots of drama.

But the wind built to a steady 25-30 with gusts to 35-40! All of a sudden, the British boat, which had been 20 m ahead of us and 20 m to starboard, was abreast of us with less than a boat length between! The line which held their mooring to the shore (underwater) had snapped and they had dragged. Our mooring was in turn attached to theirs (and not to the shore) so we were also at risk of dragging and at a minimum, it looked like they were going to start bashing into us at any moment. They (the British boat) wanted us to move as we came in later and had better ground tackle, but I felt it was too late given our earlier failures and did not feel too bad given that it was they who were dragging even if it was no fault of their own. With help from the restaurant owner, we got our kedge anchor ashore on a long rode and took the pressure off the mooring line as well as gave ourselves another line of defense. Colleen and I then helped the British boat put out bow and stern anchors such that they could which the boat a bit further away from Redwings and hopefully also arrest their dragging. Lastly we put all of the fenders and the dingy between the to boats and hoped for the best.

I hate to leave the boat under such uncertain conditions, but we certainly needed to eat at the restaurant given all of the help and heroics that had been provided by the owner. He turned out to be the cook and the waiter as well as anchoring assistant! A meal of mezzae and fresh fish was mediocre, but reasonable. 3/4 of the way through the meal, I could see a flashlight flashing on our boat and towards us from the British boat. Oh Oh. Colleen and I sprinted down the dock, hopped in the dingy, and went over the check it out. We thought they were signaling us to come back, but it turns out they were just looking at the situation as the boats were swinging to within 5 feet of each other.

Colleen stayed on the boat and I went back to pick up Dave and Michelle - who had paid the bill after we ran off! Thanks guys.

But that's no all folks. At around 0230 in the middle of the night, Colleen mumbled "somebody fell in" and through the haze I could discern drips falling on my face from the hatch above. Colleen got up. "Its Sybil". Sure enough Syb looked like a drowned cat - wet to the skin. I don't know how she got back aboard as we did not have a towel or anything hung over for them. She much have either climbed into the dingy or came up the anchor rode. Anyway, she made it and after a fresh water shower and rub down was ready for bed.

28 June, Bozburn, Turkey

Aaron - The wind eased in the early hours of the morning and we headed off for the town of Bozburn about 20 miles away. Bozburn is a fairly local town with very little tourism and the requisite ruins all round. We anchored off a dirt road that lead to the harbor and tied to a bolder on shore. Relatively easy anchoring for a change and we had a really solid hold. As it turned out, we anchored just a few meters from the town swimming dock and we had loads of people swimming around us all day. Colleen, Dave and I dingied around to the various ruins and climbed up down and all around. Colleen collected a bunch of wild oregano which I'm sure will hang around the cabin for a few weeks before I have to chuck it out.....

In town, we found a reasonable restaurant with "free" showers and World Cup matches on TV. We were sold. It turned out to be Osmans Place or something and the proprietor was Osman himself of the deserted Osmans Restaratunt of two anchorages ago. He said he ran that restaraunt and his nephew is now out there - apparently the guy who said we could not use his mooring. In addition, his son was the proprietor / harbor master / cook / waiter of the restaraunt where we ate last night! All in the family. It was a great spot to hang in and very relaxing after the subtle stress of the last two days.

29 June, Selimiye, Turkey

Aaron - Another short 20 mile trip around the bend to the town of Selimiye. We eventually came stern to a restaurant and had another relaxing day reading, walking, watching World Cup matches, and drying off Basil.... That was not so relaxing.

While we were having dinner, the guy on the boat next to ours started flashing a light towards us and yelling "the cat, he in the water". In the same firehouse style in which we left the dinner table two nights ago, Colleen and I left Dave and Michelle mid-meal and bolted for the dock just in time to see a wet Basil being plopped back on Redwings by his rescuer. Apparently, Basil, who had been on shore eating grass like a mad cow, was surprised by a dog and was chased on to the dock, but could not make it to the boat so instead he jumped right into the water! He then apparently swam around the several boats moored there and tried unsuccessfully to get into someone's dingy before his rescuer got in another dingy and lifted him out. Shower and rub down for him and we reckon he'll be in for the night. But no. At 0300 a wet cat jumps on us and sure enough he has fallen in again somehow and this time made it back under his own power. I'm losing sympathy and told Colleen to just hose him down, give him a towel, and shut him in the head to dry out, but she gave him the nice rub down and snuggled him dry - no wonder he keeps jumping in!

30 June, Stardust Marina, Marmaris, Turkey

Aaron - Back to Marmaris in one shot. We left at 0530, had some great sailing at 8 knots for a few hours around noon, and made it in at around 1300. We decided to check out Stardust Marina at the other end of the Bay given the exorbinant price of Netsel Marina. Stardust is actually just a yacht basin for a charter company so they only let other people come in Sunday through Friday noon as their fleet then returns, however, during the free days its only $11 per day. Good for us as we only need to come in for a few days and can then go out and come back to pick up my Dad on Monday. We may also need to come out of the water. The shaft seal started leaking again. I was able to scrunch it tight, but its just not right.

We went into town during the afternoon and Dave and Michelle caught the bus for Fetihye. They were great guests and it was really fortunate that we were able to hook up with them. I then made an appointment with a recommended marine engineer to come tomorrow to look at the shaft seal / shaft situation. If we do need to haul out, I'll also do an antifouling job.

Nice quiet night at Stardust. The cats enjoyed roaming around and stayed dry.....

1 July, Netsel Marina, Marmaris, Turkey

Aaron - The shaft guy Ahmad came on time at 1030 and confirmed and convinced me that we do in fact have an alignment problem and should haul the boat to sort it out. However, he is based in Netsel Marina (Marmaris Marina) and was not too keen to make the commute to Stardust. However, he said we was in close with the "Mafia" at Netsel (which is God awful expensive for haul out) and claimed that he could probably help me negotiate a much lower rate. I hopped on the back of his motor scooter and went back to Netsel with him and sure enough they dropped the price by almost 50% - into our budget range. It will me much much more convenient to get the work done there.

So we packed up and left Stardust and had the boat in the Travelhoist by 1530.... when who should appear but Richard (Malcat Singapore) and Ben from Sporitica Marie. Richard helped Bet bring Sportica Marie from Israel. They had just arrived after traveling up the coast from Finike were looking for us in fact! We caught up while the boat was hauled and wedged into place on the hard.

Ahmad and his man got right on the job and started removing the shaft. He also lent me a high pressure wash hose and I started cleaning the bottom preparing it for painting. A pretty productive day overall. Colleen also got another coat of varnish on some of the bits which were a bit under-coated in Israel.

The cats are mystified: we are on the boat, but we are on land, but we are too high to get off.... They have a great view of the garbage dumpsters where all kinds of tough cats hang out - sorry guys. They just sit on the rail and mew down at us while we work.

2 July, Netsel Marina, Marmaris, Turkey

Aaron - A productive, but miserable day overall. Hot, Hot, Hot! During the day it was about 100 F and blowing 20 knots - which meant a) we did not dare to put up our large bimini which would shield us from the sun fearing it would lift the boat off the rather fragile looking supports holding us up and b) copious quantities of dust swirled in and around the boat all day. Luckily my main job for the day was standing under the boat (in some shade) with a hose (which I could drink out of and douse myself with) sanding down the bottom to prepare it for painting. The cats looked like they were going to die all day just lying on the floor with their mouths open and panting rapidly... We put wet towels over them and kept giving the ice water to keep them from overheating.

Colleen has been wanting a fold up bike for a long time, and finally caved in and bought us a pair at US$100 a piece today. The are Turkish made and look a bit flimsy, but it sure is nice to be able to bike around town and the marina. Should be good fun throughout the Med and Caribbean.

The shaft is proving a real bitch to get out. The shaft lock installed in Hong Kong was off very poor quality stainless steel and had firmly corroded to the shaft after only 8 months. We had to bring in a full sized blow torch to get it off the shaft which enabled us to get the shaft out. The shaft itself is quite pitted with corrosion - perhaps a function of the fact that we have been shaft-zincless since x-mass of last year. I can't imagine that that is the only problem though and fear we have a bit more of a general electrolysis problem. I am going to replace all of the zinc and 2x check connections this week.

3 July, Netsel Marina, Marmaris, Turkey

Aaron - The good news is that the wind has died a bit, the bad news is that the day time in the sun / in the boat temperature was 110 F! We gave both cats two cold showers which they did not even mind much and really did seem to help keep them cool. We have four more days on the hard. If it gets any hotter, we'll have to move into a hotel or something and try to smuggle the cats in as well.

The shaft problem is pretty major and multifaceted. It appears that in addition to a general alignment problem, no lubricating water was getting into the cutlass bearing (where it exits the hull) as whoever put the last bearing in (Natsteel in Singapore) had squirted a bunch of silicon around the bearing which plugged the hole. As a result, friction and temperatures were high and the rubber in the bearing was visibly melted and the copper oxidized. As the bearing broke down, the alignment got worse and did a job on the flexible coupling (where the shaft meets the transmission /engine) - all of the rubber bits were trashed. Lastly, all the banging around and corrosion on the shaft resulted in a slight bend in the shaft itself. $ signs are rearing their ugly heads.......

But prices are actually pretty reasonable here. They are making a new shaft for us for only $350 all in (316 stainless) and a new Turkish made flexible coupling is only $150. A new shaft in Hong Kong would have cost us over $1,000. A better shaft lock system is also being fabricated at reasonable cost. At least it looks like our banging, vibrating and leaking problems will be over.

Colleen is taking off for Istanbul with our friends Richard and Ben of Sportica Marie to escape the heat and boatyard pandemonium. That means I can spread my tools all over the place and yell and swear as loud as I like with out making anyone upset. Basil and Sybil don't care.

4 July, Netsel Marina, Marmaris, Turkey

Aaron - Moderate breeze and temperature down to a more civilized 100 F. I put the biminis over the boat which keeps the belowdecks temperature to a very cool 90 F. At this point, I am more worried of the cats dying of heat exhaustion than the boat getting blown over on the hard.

Kerry just e-mailed us and confirmed that she has accepted a job at Amherst College which starts in mid-August and that she will be leaving us. She and her Mom are due to stop by Marmaris for a day or so, she'll pick up her stuff, and then be on her way with her Mom doing a bit of travelling before heading back to the good ole USA. A bit of a fast transition, but its a great opportunity for her and Colleen and I can easily handle the boat alone now, especially as we have no real long passages do to till we cross the Atlantic. We will certainly miss her company though and varnishing prowess!

My Dad and family, Colleen, and Kerry and her Mom are all due to arrive on Monday the 5th - the same day the antifouling paint will arrive and we are slated to finish work on installing the new shaft! Should be a fun day. Hopefully everything can be completed on Monday and we can get the boat back in the water on Tuesday, cleaned up, and head back out by Wednesday for a bit of cruising again. Sometimes I miss the relaxing life of an Investment Analyst! At least I was paid well to work my ass off and in an airconditioned environment!

NEW TURKEY ENTRIES

5 - 7 July, Life on the Hard Continued.....

Aaron - Things got crazy, they got bad, and they got worse. The weather stayed hot. The cats got sick. It was tough to face life and impossible to think of making website entries.....

Colleen, Kerry, and my Dad's family did all arrive on the 5th. The anti-fouling paint did not. With the boat on the hard and the weather so hot, Dad, Becky and Brady all checked into a hotel. Its great to see them but I was imensely stressed out by the fact that we were far from ready to go back in the water. The days were a bit of a blur, but nothing seemed to go smoothly. Tuesday came and still no anti-fouling paint. We had to get back in the water the following day so I bought four cans of the local stuff which is supposedly pretty good and a lot cheaper as well than the International paint I had ordered. I had already sanded and cleaned the bottom and with Dad and Colleen's help, we were able to get two coats on. The next day we fitted the new zincs and also strainers for the raw water intake and cutlass bearing lubrication hole. Zillions of other small jobs too numerous to list also were tackled with various degrees of sucess.

Work on the shaft system and new exhaust system progressed reasonably well, but Ahmed spoted a crack extending up and below the housing for the cutlass bearing on the rudder skeg. I knew we had a small leak somewhere. This must be it. I guess the strong vibration of the misaligned shaft had resulted in the crack. There was no time to to a major repair so we just drilled it out till we hit dry glass and bunged some epoxy in. Luckily the Marina let us stay an extra day free so it, and the paint, had plenty of time to dry.

8 - July, Stardust Marina, Marmaris, Turkey

Aaron - Ok so we finally got back in the water and everything seemed to work well. The new exhaust system - which should virtually guarantee we do not get water back in the engine again - seemed to work fine and as advertised by Ahmad, it has quieted the engine a bit as well. The shaft does not leak. She looks good. Very good. Dad, Becky and Brady helped polish the topsides and with the clean bottom, what little you can see of it, Redwings is more beautiful than usual. Starting to feel human again.

Colleen and I took the boat down to Stardust Marina for a day of cheap (US$7 per night) cleaning and and evening of relaxation. Dad and gang will stay one more night in the hotel which is great cause it gives us a bit of time to get organized. We should have been at this stage about 10 days ago! Arrgh!

Well we still are not that great at backing the beast up, but with a bit of help from one of the Stardust guys we made it in ok. He turned out to be French, but had spent a lot of time in the US and bought his boat in Rockport Maine! He lives on it in the marina and its still registered in Rockport. Pretty funny to have two boats from Camden/Rockport in the same small marina in Turkey!

Colleen and Jean (I beleive) polished off a bottle of wine while I scrubbed out the dingy which was absolutely disgusting after floating in Netsel Marina for days. The fact that the gas can burst did not help matters.

Night and the kitties were ready to roll after days on the hard. Basil followed me like a dog mewing all the way as I walked around the marina and out to the end of the breakwater. Fun to watch them run around playing. Much cooler down here. Hopefully they will get well soon.....

11 July, Escapade Marina, Marmaris, Turkey

Aaron - We had to move this moring out of the Stardust area to the town area of the marina as Stardust's charter fleet will come in today. The differance between the two is that there are no moorings off the town quay so we've got to anchor and go stern to. This is our first time to do this. Luckily, we rounded up Jean and to help us get the lines secured ashore. Somehow, we managed to get one of the stern lines around the prop. Engine obviously stopped. Luckily, we were able to get a line to someone ashore and we eventually made it in thanks to the help of several people tugging on the lines. I jumped over with my mask and a big knife and cut the rope away. How embarrasing. At least Dad was not here to witness the humiliation!

But c'est la vie, we're here and Dad and co soon arrived. One last day of druggery and we can leave! We got them settled in and then progressed with scrubbing the outside of the boat which got so dusty while on the hard.

But the wind built and was pushing us more and more down on the boat to starbord of us - looks like we are dragging. We are. With Dad's help in the dingy, and Brady and Becky letting the rode out, we set out our kedge anchor. I dove on it and it seemed to be stuck in and holding. The Bruce, on inspection, deffinately was not set and had dragged a lot and been partially reeled into the boat when we were trying to get it re-set. The bruce and its chain are too heavy to re-set with the dingy so we we just left what was out there line in hopes the weight of the chain at least would minimize bow movement. This is turning out to be another stressful day!

In the end thpough, we held and got a good night's sleep. The cats had fun visiting all of the boat around the marina. We saw Sybil on a Swedish boat a few down from us and we asked the people on board if they minded. "Oh no. She came by last night as well..." This is a good 200 meters away from where we were yesterday....

12 July, Marmaris, Turkey

Aaron - The day started off bad, and ended worse..... Our extraction from the marina proved to be the ultimate in humiliation. The wind had already started to kick in by the time we were ready to leave at around 0830. Basil and Sybil, already fed and watered, were on shore chasing leaves and bugs and having a grand time. They were not ready to leave. We caught one, we caught the other, and started to loosen the lines, but Basil was able to span the 8 foot gap and jumped to shore again! Colleen jumped on the boat next to ours, which we were now coming down on hard due to the wind, and ran back to get him. She was sucessful, but now we were pressed against the other boat and getting out would be difficult as they had numerous anchor lines fanning off the bow (it was apparently being left here unattended for some time). I gave it some throttle and we started whinching up the kedge anchor rapidly, but the wind pushed us down over their first line as we cleared (just) their bow pulpit. A German cruiser who was helping us with the stern lines loosened the boat's anchor rode so we could slip by, I gave it a bit of throttle to get out enough to clear the next line, but whuk, whuk, whuk we wrapped their rode and the engine stopped. Shit! Very large audiance this morning!

Over the side for me. I cannot get this rope clear and don't want to cut it. Eventually, the Stardust rescue team took pity on us and came over to help. Jean told be to just kick the prop in the reverse direction to loosen the wind. That worked and I got the rope off. Good tip. With the Stardust dingy pushing us off the next line, I was able to get the engine started and the boat out into the middle of the marina. The Bruce anchor came up easily. We then started winding up the Danforth kedge anchor, but it did not come easily. The fun is not over: we are fouled on someone elses anchor! Fortuneately, with the help of the Stardust gang Colleen and Dad were able to get the anchor free and in the process learned the trick for dealing with such situations (passing a rope around the fouled chain to take the load which can then be released when the anchor is slacked and freed).

Ok so that was humiliating but its a beautiful day and we are never gonna see these folks again and we are out of here! Finally. I really felt great as w motored by the islands outside of Marmaris and into the bay that opens up to the Agean Sea. With the wind behind us at 15 - 20 knots, we soon had the sails up and were gliding along. Put the reconditioned new and improved shaft lock on and click -- it engaged easily and perfectly. One minor victory.

The weater pattern was almost exactly the same as when we came up this coast a few weeks ago with Dave and Michelle - behind us out of Marmaris, dead off the point, building on the nose as we turned the corner, and then building strongly to 15, 20, 25.... I was trying to sail the boat between the mainland and the island where we took the sails down with Dave and Michelle, but eventually the wind came right on the nose and it was clear we could not comfortably negotiate the passage under sail. Time to take the shaft lock off in case we need to start the motor. Crunch - it broke. I cannot win this one. The propeller just places too much pressure on the shaft when we are moving and the system is too light to handle it. Great.

Dad had been saying, "lets hope the motor starts if we need it, we're really pinching it to get by this island...." "Don't worry, it always starts". So reach down to flick the beast down and -- nothing! No fear. Just a loose connection where I had been playing with the ignition key wires. I know how to jump the engine by bypassing the starter circuit straight to the solinoid. But I could not get it to jump! I could get the starter motor to whirr,but not engage. Arragh! I did this in the Red Sea! Must be something fundamentally wrong with the starter motor or solinoid. We've got to go back to Marmaris. I was afraid to tell Colleen this but she just said ok and we turned around. At least we got a bit of sailing in. Still, extremely frustrating for me.

The wind held up for awhile, but again died as we got off Marmaris. We drifted around for a couple of hours taking any puff we could to make ground. For awhile, it looked like we might spend the night driftng around out there. But eventually we got to a new windline and were able to beat all the way back to Marmaris. Good sail actually. We slid into the anchorage just as the wind died and anchored under sail. WE CANNOT GET OUT OF THIS PLACE!

13 July, Marmaris, Turkey

Aaron - Text

14 July, Marmaris, Turkey

Aaron - Text

15 July, Marmaris, Turkey

Aaron - La Scala arrives, bad day, Dad and co to Ephasus

16 July, Marmaris, Turkey

Aaron - Text

17 July, Bozuk Boku, Turkey

Aaron - Text

18 July, Selimiye, Turkey

Aaron - Text

19 July, Orhaniye, Marmaris, Turkey

Aaron - Following a leasiurely breakfast puncuated by political discussion, we slipped out lines and motored the 10 miles to Orhaniye which is a little village at the head of the next bay to the East. Sunny, light winds, still very pleasant in here. However, reports on the radio from those out in the Rhodes Channel and further out in the Agean indicate that the Meltimi is still howling. This bay extends so far inland, it (the Meltimi) must simply be passing us by. Hey, on the way in all of a sudden the alternator kicked in and started putting out 80 amps. A check of the regulator indicated that it was in fact working - and thus properly wired - so no worries there. I guess all I need to do is get the alternator serviced again. I'll probably also buy a new one and keep this one as a spare as it seems to be getting a bit tired. Luck seems to be turning our way.

On approaching Orhaniye, we passed the requisite ruined castle to starbord, left the requisite marina under construction to port, and approached the inner anchorage where all of the restaraunts are and most of the other yachts are moored. We spoted Osprey on one of the docks and figured that would be as good a place as any to stop. A perfect back up and tie up job gave face to all (especially the captain), quick water and electricity hook up, and we were settled. I don't know if you can really call this cruising, but it sure is comfortable and enjoyable!

We put up the bimini (which we should have done yesterday) and things stayed much more comfortable on board. I napped and Dad and Brady swam across the bay to a long sandbar where zillions of locals were swimming and splashing trying to stay cool.

When it cooled, I grabed the multi-meter and went after the engine instruments. I felt pretty confident that I had the problem narrowed down to a few potential circuits and sure enough, I found a disconnected ground wire I was not previously aware of, hooked it back up, and bingo everything works! Now there is really nothing that does not work! I still want to re-wire everything in the engine room to clean up the "soup", but at least now I know where all of the wires and and where they go and why so I should be able to keep things working. Big morale boost. We still need to go back to Marmaris to pick up the part for the shaft lock I am getting welded up, but at least it won't be the huge drama it could have been.

Kurt and PL from Osprey are strongly recommending we take a trip to Kappadocia (or something like that) which is apparently an ancient Christian city built underground. With my Mom not arrivng till the 31st, and no major must-do projects on hand, we should both be able to get away for a side trip. Lorraine from La Scala wants to go too. Finally, life is really enjoyable again!

Great dinner here with Osprey - $10 per person, big servings, free dockage, water, and electricity. Really great deal these little spots.

20 July, Orhaniye, Marmaris, Turkey

Aaron - LAYZEEE day. At least the start. Up at 0815 to listen the to the weather and feed the monsters, and then back to bed till 1000 for my first nap of the day. I finally rallied and joined the others on shore under a shady tree for a wonderful, yet simple, breakfast of coffee, fruit, bread and honey. An extremely competitive game of hearts, which Colleen barely won thanks to a free gift from me, kept us at the table till noon - looks like we will stay here another day. A couple more British boats pulled in while we were watching and one had two cats aboard - should be an interesting evening socially for the cats. Gigilo (another Thailand - Red Sea comrade) also pulled in.

Its only a 35 min bus ride to Marmaris from Orhaniye as its just on the other side of the peninsula we sailed around so we decided to bus it in so Dad could sort out ferry tickets for the gang to get them back to Athens on time for their flight. Marmaris was hot, hot, hot, but we were able to sort out schedules, get our e-mail, and pick up some groceries.

21 July, Bay near Orhaniye, Turkey

Aaron - Text solar place, anchor, Jon bouy,

22 July, Marmaris, Turkey

Aaron - Text Birthday - dinner, movie

23 July, Marmaris, Turkey

Aaron - Text Thursday - Dad and co leave

24 July, Marmaris, Turkey

Aaron - Text Friday

25 July, Marmaris, Turkey

Aaron - Text Saturday - cooler blow from SE - dec org

26 July, Marmaris, Turkey

Aaron - Text Sunday bye to La Scala, movie -

27 July, Marmaris, Turkey

Aaron - La Scala finally really left this morning, but not before Kel came by to check out all of the work I had supposedly been doing on the boat and Lorraine popped in for a final gossip with Colleen while she varnished.

I then went in to watch Ahmed fix the alternator so I could learn more about the beastie. Ahmed already had it apart and was shocked that it had really supposedly been serviced in Isreal. It looks like all they did was put some grease on one of the bearings - the bearings themselves looked old. Other bits and peices, including the brushes, were also old and worn, but easily replaced.

Back to the boat, re-install it, new belt, and wow, its putting out 100 amps! This is the best this thing has done since we boughts the boat! No more big jobs to worry about now.....

Colleen has basically been dividing her time between cooling yummie food, varnishing, and trying to knock down the best insurance deal possible. Time is running out though and the day lags of e-mails are eating up the week.

28 July, Marmaris, Turkey

Aaron - Although at anchor, it seems we are back in cruising mode. So many of the jobs that have been swelling lists for months are gone its become hard for even a compulsive worker like me to find something that must be done.... One of the days larger jobs consisted of painting the bulbs that light the compass with red fingernail polish as the old red paint was starting to wear through and the light had become more red than white. When you start getting to this level, things are really pretty civilized!

It's too bad we did'nt have a couple of more days before Mom comes so we could travel to Cappidocia - this would be a great guilt-free time to leave the boat for a few days. But it just does not make sense. Over the next few days we will be able to get really ready for once. We'll have to be as it will probably be blowing 20-30 on or almost on the nose all the way across the Agean. August is the hight of the Meltimi.

We've been here a long time, but its still a nice place to be. I still really enjoy the evening sunsets as for so much of the past month my nose has been to the grindstone trying to get things together and I have not really been able to enjoy it much.

Inspection of the poop box revealed several "normal" blobs. Perhaps they are finally over their diarrah. Bots cats seem in good health and spirits, but Sybil's eyes have not improved. She is starting to take the twice daily eye drop treatments as routine.

29 July, Marmaris, Turkey

Aaron - Text Wednesday

30 July, Marmaris, Turkey

Aaron - Text Thursday

31 July, Marmaris, Turkey

Aaron - Text Friday Mom to arrive.

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